5/6/2023 0 Comments Tiltshift adapter![]() and so yes, Depth of Field in closer circumstances (like within a few meters or yards) is much more challenging. What all that capture area implies is that to get a "wide angle lens" equivalent to a P14mm f2.5 you'll need a 90mm. Go grab a blank sheet of A4 paper and draw a rectangle of 4" by 5" on it then in the middle of that draw a rectangle of 0.78 x 0.59 inches (yes) and then you have the sensor size of a 4x5 sheet of film and a m43 camera. One needs to grasp a few things about "view cameras" (which I've been using for quite a many year) such as base tilts, center tilts and the "front stand" (where the lens is) and "back stand" (where the film is) variants of that. making the current ones on eBay which behave more like the TS-E Canon lenses (which I used to own before I sold out of Canon) where tilt or shift is employed only on one axis and you rotate the mount to get the "tilt plane" (or shift direction) you wanted. Its difficult to master because really you need to "tilt the camera body" (you'll see that effect in my video) and has no geared method (as do the eBay ones) and is totally free. There are plenty on eBay to choose from now. The work you want to emulate is made with very specialized, high-end gear, and it's unreasonable to expect the same can be done on the cheap.I bought a tilt only adapter from a guy in Italy back many moons ago (clearly he manufactures them) which is based on the bottom of the adapter moving (on a ball joint) closest to the camera. I cannot imagine there is a truly "cheap" or "easy" way to get what you want with the equipment you have. ![]() ![]() The Olympus PEN T/S kit you referenced is, as noted, from a FF lens onto a 4/3 sensor, so the effect is analogous to a much larger image circle onto a FF film/sensor. Tilt and/or Shift functions demand a much larger image circle in order to project the image onto the film/sensor with any offsetting adjustment. Second, as I tried to explain, the focus circle on standard lenses will typically just cover the film/sensor area. It is uncertain whether or not a "useful" focus range will be maintained. Infinity focus will be lost, while the close focus distance will be reduced. As I tried to explain above, and as touched on by RJ, there remain two main physical issues with your desired approach: First, as per RJ, adding the thickness of any adapter will be similar to adding an extension tube, as for macro work with non-macro lenses. I cant find any that goes from OM mount to OM mount Yes - outlining exactly what you want to achieve is really helpful to get focused advice. ![]() Possibly, you could remodel the LensBaby’s mount to suit an OM Mount, if you have the skills and the tools, or a technician could possibly do that – but maybe that would cost more than just buying a Canon or Nikon SLR.īy the way, there's no need to apologize: this is a Beginner Forum and it is understood that you might have only a basic understanding of some things - that's why a continuum of conversation will usually get to the hub of what you really want. Obviously you’d need a camera: I’d expect there are many Film SLRs for next to nothing nowadays. Samyang (Rokinon) make a T/S Lens for Canon and Nikon and it is marketed at a lower price than the Canon similar lens. In any case, as I have already mentioned above, and to the best of my knowledge the cheapest variant is LensBaby: they make a “LensBaby Spark” and also the “LensBaby Composer Pro”.īoth are very basic optics, but, neither is anywhere near the price of a quality T/S Lens.Īs I also previously mentioned, I don’t know if they make these for OM Mount, my guess is not, but they do make them for Nikon and Canon. It’s a bit confusing to me as to whether you want: “Tilt” or “Shift” or “Shift and Tilt" - these are different. Any suggestions to a fairly cheap analog setup, that can use a tilt setup? ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |